ABSTRACT
The European yarn fairs for the autumn/winter 2023/24 season were held in a hesitant spirit, reflecting economic uncertainties affecting the whole of the textile and clothing industry. The industry has faced persistent disruptions to supply chains caused by lockdowns, which have continued to be imposed in major textile and clothing producing countries in an attempt to stem the spread of COVID-19. Furthermore, the war in Ukraine has introduced additional challenges—including difficulties in procuring raw materials and sharp increases in fuel and energy costs. At the same time, calls for the European textile and clothing industry to take action to reduce the damaging impact of its operations on the environment have intensified. It was evident at the fairs that many exhibitors had acknowledged these calls in the development of their product ranges for the autumn/winter 2023/24 season. Many had turned to using recycled waste materials in a bid to improve their sustainability credentials while some had implemented strategies aimed at reducing energy and water consumption and others had replaced materials derived from petroleum with natural materials. Several exhibitors had developed yarns made using materials derived from post-consumer waste polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic bottles. However, claims made about the environmental sustainability of such materials faced some challenges, given that synthetic fibres are known to be a cause of microplastics pollution. Yarns made from natural fibres, especially merino wool, were prevalent at the yarn fairs. However, there was a consensus among exhibitors that the industry is facing pressures to guarantee the welfare of the animals used in its supply chains. There was also a consensus that consumers are expecting manufacturers to be more responsible and transparent about the animal fibres they use. One of the ways in which manufacturers aim to meet these expectations in their product ranges for the autumn/winter 2023/24 season is to achieve compliance with international certification schemes, such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2022.